Skip to main content

When Brakes Need Replacing, the Fluid Speaks

Today I intend to replace Brake Pads on both Cars. I'm sipping coffee while waking up and typing this post. I thought to record and share these miniscule insights regarding Brakes on a Vehicle after watching a YouTube Video yesterday about the Prius.

It is common practice to look over the various fluids on a vehicle and keep them topped-off. I suppose that is the least one could do, when it comes to maintaining their vehicle! Although I can think of a few people that won't even do that much. But the Brake Fluid should never need to be topped off!

The identifier for when Brake Pads need to be replaced is when the Brake Fluid Reservoir is low or below the, "Min Line". The Brake system is a sealed system, but there are a couple reasons to be low on fluid. Fluid level is the first, and easiest, indicator of needed Pad Replacement. As the Pads wear-down, the lost space is replaced by the fluid in the Reservoir. When the, "Min Line," is reached, it should be addressed. But, never refill the reservoir. When the Mechanic depresses the Brake Piston, to install new Pads, the fluid is pushed back to the reservoir. If fluid had been added, it will overflow and Brake Fluid is pretty nasty to painted finishes.

It's likely that your Brakes aren't serviced as recommended. There is a chance the mechanism isn't lubricated or, "Frozen," and the vehicle will have uneven wearing on the Brakes. If they're serviced as recommended, the car would be in the shop every year. Honestly, I doubt many shops would even actually perform any work. The Calipers should be removed, inspected and greased to ensure the Pads are working evenly.

While I too think 15,000 miles is a bit absurd. It should be done frequently. I pushed my Nissan Leaf to 35,000 and I'm now at 64,000 miles. I don't expect them to be too bad or uneven. 

I opted to use Marine Grease this time on the Prius and the Leaf. Partially because of availability but additionally because it withstands very high temperatures and is thicker. I believe that thickness and heat tolerance would improve performance on the sliding mechanism of the Caliper. I will likely check them in 15,000 miles to ensure everything is okay.

What does a Garage Charge for Brakes? It would vary based on the condition of the Rotors and Calipers. But the price quoted was $80 to $300 per axle. I translated that as $160.00 for Pads and $600.00 for Pads and Rotors. To my Wife and myself, that translates to some variation between $320.00 to $1,200.00. Quite a lot of savings that can be allocated to some very attractive looking short-term Bonds and CDs!

If someone reading this isn't very, "Mechanical". Remember that Brake Fluid shouldn't be low and shouldn't be, "Topped-off". Everyone in front of you, during travels, relies on your understanding of this! So please, if the fluid is low, take the car to a shop!

Labels:

Popular posts from this blog

How to Add Beneficiaries on E*TRADE Without Losing Your Mind

“Because your money should go where you want it, not where the probate court thinks it should, I am sharing this information.” Ah, E*TRADE. The place where your money grows, your trades execute (sometimes), and your hopes for financial freedom flutter like a candlestick chart on a volatile Thursday. But what happens if you kick the bucket before you get that Tesla stock to moon? Simple: you assign a beneficiary. Unfortunately, E*TRADE doesn’t make this as intuitive as you might think. This isn’t a “click here and boom, you’re immortal” situation. But fear not, fellow capitalist. I’ve braved the pixelated jungle so you don’t have to. 🛠️ Step-by-Step: Setting a Beneficiary for Your E*TRADE Brokerage Account (aka “How to ensure your money doesn’t end up in your ex’s lap or your neighbor's GoFundMe”) Log in at etrade.com . (Obvious, yes. But worth saying—this isn’t Webkinz, you need the real site.) At the top, click “Accounts” and select your Brokerage Account . (The on...
Read more

NJ's Middle-Class Squeeze: Too Much for Help, Not Enough for Comfort

This is a long post — longer than what I usually write — because what I’m talking about here isn’t a small annoyance or a passing frustration. It’s something that has been building for years, and I’m finally putting it all into words. I’m upset, I’m exhausted, and I’m passionate about what follows, because it affects every working person in this state who’s trying to stay afloat. There’s a growing group in New Jersey — people who work full‑time, sometimes more than one job, who earn too much to qualify for assistance but not enough to absorb the constant increases in living costs. These are the people tightening their budgets, lowering their thermostats, cutting back wherever they can, and still watching their bills rise for reasons that have nothing to do with their own usage or behavior. If you’re part of that group, or you know someone who is, then what follows will probably resonate with you. And if you’re not, then I hope this gives you a clearer picture of what the middle class i...
Read more

Understanding Treasury Bond Auctions: The Difference Between High Yield and Interest Rate

Treasury bonds are a popular choice for investors looking for a reliable source of income backed by the U.S. government. However, understanding how these bonds are priced at auction can be confusing, especially when comparing the High Yield and the Interest Rate (Coupon Rate) columns. In this post, I'll break it down using a real-world example.  A Look at a Recent Treasury Bond Auction Here’s an example of a 20-year Treasury bond that was recently auctioned: Security Term CUSIP Reopening Issue Date Maturity Date High Yield Interest Rate 20-Year 912810UF3 Yes 01/31/2025 11/15/2044 4.900% 4.625% What Do These Numbers Mean? CUSIP : This is a unique identifier for the bond. Reopening : Since it says "Yes," this means the bond was originally issued earlier and is now being reoffered. Issue Date : January 31, 2025—this is when the bond will be offi...
Read more